🦩 Have You Seen Setúbal's Winter Flamingos Yet?

Happy Sunday, amigos! 😎

November is here, and with it comes a favourite little Portuguese traditions: roasted chestnuts! 🌰 Any day now, the smell of castanhas assadas will be drifting through the streets, reminding us that autumn is well and truly here.

And while the cooler weather might have us reaching for our jackets, it certainly doesn't mean we need to stop exploring Portugal.

Our wonderful travel guru, Marga from Discover Portugal, is back with what might just be one of my favourite articles of hers yet. This month, she's taking us to Setúbal, where flamingos gather in the Sado Estuary, wild dolphins roam the waters, and there's plenty more to discover, including one of Portugal's best markets and some seriously good seafood.

And here's something I didn't know: the cooler months are actually a fantastic time to go birdwatching. Fewer crowds, quieter roads, and plenty of feathered visitors to keep an eye out for. I never thought I'd be this excited about birdwatching, but here we are! 🦩😂 I can't wait for you to read this one.

And before we get started, a little milestone worth mentioning...

Next Sunday marks our 100th edition of The Expat Hustle! 🎉 I honestly can't believe we've made it to 100 Sundays together. To celebrate, we're welcoming a brand-new collaborator, Remodel.pt, who'll be taking us behind the scenes of renovating in Portugal. I'm really excited about this partnership and can't wait to share more with you next week!

Right, let's dive in, shall we? ☕

Today's local travel guide comes from Marga at Discover Portugal. Last month she had us painting tiles and making pastéis de nata indoors. This time she's pulling us back outside, just south of Lisbon, to Setúbal and the wild, beautiful Sado Estuary. Pack the binoculars.

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Setúbal is one of those places that’s close enough to Lisbon for an easy day trip, but varied enough to turn into a proper weekend away.

You have the city itself, with its market, seafood restaurants, old streets and views from Forte de São Filipe. Then you have Arrábida Natural Park on one side, the Sado Estuary on the other, and Tróia just across the water.

But this winter, I’d especially keep the Sado Estuary on your radar.

If you like nature, photography, birdwatching, or just getting out of the city for a slower day, this is one of the best areas near Lisbon to explore in the cooler months.

The Sado Estuary Natural Reserve is one of our favourite nature escapes south of Lisbon.

My dad is an avid birdwatcher, and whenever my parents visit, we usually end up discovering more birdwatching spots around Portugal. The Sado Estuary is one we’ve visited a few times now, especially to look for flamingos and other birds. And winter is a great time to go!

The landscape around the estuary is made up of marshland, salt pans, sandbanks and waterways. It’s a peaceful setting, and if you bring binoculars or a camera, you can easily spend a few hours spotting birds.

You may see flamingos, herons, kingfishers, waders and other species, depending on the season and conditions. The Mourisca Tide Mill is a good starting point, with walking routes nearby and boat trips leaving from the small docks.

→ Read our full Sado River and Estuary guide here

The Sado area is also known for its wild bottlenose dolphins. Boat tours depart from places like Setúbal, Tróia, Sessimbra and the Mourisca Tide Mill, and some focus on dolphins, birds, and the Arrábida coast.

Of course, dolphins are wild animals, so sightings are never guaranteed. But even without dolphins, a boat trip here can be a lovely way to experience the estuary from the water.

You’ll get views over the river, salt marshes, Tróia and sometimes even the Arrábida coastline, depending on the route. For birdwatching tours, it’s worth checking the tide and booking in advance, as some departures depend on the water level.

Setúbal itself is much more than a place to pass through on the way to Arrábida or Tróia.

The city has a lively centre, beautiful tiled buildings, churches, local shops, and one of the most famous markets in Portugal: Mercado do Livramento. If you love fresh fish, seafood, produce, tiles and everyday Portuguese market life, this is a great stop.

You can also walk up to Forte de São Filipe for one of the best views over the city, the Sado River, Tróia and Arrábida. It’s a lovely place to get your bearings and see how much nature surrounds Setúbal.

Food is another reason to stay longer. Setúbal is known for seafood and grilled fish, so this is not the place to rush lunch!

If you live in Lisbon, Setúbal is easy enough for a day trip by train, bus or car. But if you want to combine the city with the estuary, Arrábida, Tróia or Azeitão, I’d definitely consider staying overnight.

→ See our Setúbal travel guide here

Arrábida Natural Park is one of the most beautiful natural areas close to Lisbon.

In summer, it’s all about beaches like Praia do Creiro, Praia de Galapinhos and Portinho da Arrábida. But winter and the shoulder seasons are actually wonderful if you want fewer crowds, scenic drives, coastal hikes, viewpoints and fresh air.

The colours are gorgeous, the roads are quieter, and you can enjoy the mountains and coastline without worrying about beach parking chaos.

Arrábida is also a good option if you want a more active day. Depending on the season, you can go hiking, kayaking, snorkelling, coasteering, or simply drive through the park and stop for views.

You can also combine the area with Azeitão for wine tasting, or continue towards Sesimbra and Cabo Espichel if you want to make a bigger day of it.

→ Explore our Arrábida Natural Park guide here

If you want a relaxed winter day from Lisbon, I’d keep it simple. Start in Setúbal with a coffee and a visit to Mercado do Livramento. Then head towards the Sado Estuary for a walk or birdwatching around the Mourisca Tide Mill. Bring binoculars, a camera and shoes you don’t mind getting a little dusty.

If you have more time, add a seafood lunch in Setúbal or Portinho da Arrábida, or drive into Arrábida Natural Park for viewpoints and coastal scenery.

For a weekend, you could turn it into a mini itinerary:

It’s close to Lisbon, but it feels like a completely different rhythm.

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With thanks to our collaborator for today’s travel article. Marga is a Dutch travel writer, photographer, and Portugal expert who founded Discover Portugal after falling in love with the country during a 2019 visit and relocating to Lisbon permanently in 2021. With over 25 years of travel experience and a background in tourism, aviation, and tech, including nearly eight years as an international flight attendant, Marga combines her storytelling skills, local insights, and photography expertise to help travelers discover both Portugal's famous sights and hidden gems. Through her website and personalized services, she offers travel planning assistance, Lisbon photography sessions, and authentic stories from her ongoing exploration of every corner of Portugal, helping curious travelers experience the country like a local rather than a tourist.

🎄 Six weeks to go! Our very first International Christmas Market takes over Canto D'Aire near Alcobaça on Sunday, 13 December. International food, independent makers, live music and a whole lot of festive cheer. Spaces are limited, so pop the date in your diary and get your tickets today.

Learn European Portuguese breakfast vocabulary while I prepare my breakfast!

In this video, you'll learn useful everyday Portuguese words and expressions, including:

You'll also hear how to describe your breakfast routine naturally in European Portuguese.

O que é que comes normalmente ao pequeno-almoço?

(What do you usually eat for breakfast?)

🗣 Want to learn more phrases like this? Check out Mia’s free Portuguese course “Kickstart Your Portuguese - The Basics”.

💡 Mia from Mia Esmeriz Academy is a Portuguese teacher from Porto with more than 15 years of experience teaching foreigners. She helps expats become fluent in Portuguese in a clear and practical way. Alongside her courses, she also shares free content on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok.

Thanks for reading! 💌

Hustle on!

Angelique🧞‍♀️

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