Madeira Is Calling 🌴

Happy Sunday, amigos 😎

And happy Mother’s Day to all the moms reading this today! 💐

Last week my daughter finally had her AIMA appointment, after 2 years of waiting, no kidding. How did it go? Well, they asked for about as many documents not on the list as there were on it, and luckily I came overprepared.

However, they did throw a curveball when they asked for my start of activity (your official registration with the tax office to show you are working or self employed). Remember, this is my daughter’s residency renewal appointment, not mine. Luckily, I already had this document in my Documentos vault, and I felt ridiculously pleased with this little app I keep telling you about. Everything I needed in one place. Sweet.

What is one thing I can tell you about your AIMA appointment? Do not sign any documents at home. Whatever you need to sign, do it there in person. Otherwise, they will either demand the document be notarised or, if you have a nice attendant like we were lucky enough to have, they will print the document out for you to sign in person, saving you that cost. I had to refill two documents and sign them there.

After all that AIMA admin chaos, we deserve a change of scenery.

Today’s newsletter takes us to Madeira, and I urge you to click on every link because the detail in Marga’s post is incredible, and her photos are even more stunning.

We are also asking you to take part in a quick one question survey on something called the Expat Rulebook, and I think you know what I’m talking about. We’ll unpack this more next week, but please take part in the conversation by answering the quick survey.

On the menu today:

Let’s dive in, shall we?

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The Temple-Monument of Santa Luzia is a unique place that earns every bit of its dramatic reputation. Perched high above Viana do Castelo on Monte de Santa Luzia, the basilica was inspired by the Sacré-Cœur in Paris and took decades to build, with construction beginning in 1904 and not fully completing until the 1950s. Its neo-Byzantine and Romanesque Revival design feels almost improbably grand for a small northern Portuguese city, but that's part of its charm. What most visitors come for, though, is the view — climb the dome (if your knees are on speaking terms with you) and you're rewarded with what's often called one of the most beautiful panoramas in Portugal, sweeping across the Lima River estuary, the Atlantic coastline, and the green hills of the Minho. The rose window is also worth noting: it's one of the largest of its kind on the Iberian Peninsula, a detail that tends to catch even the most church-weary traveller off guard.

Today’s local travel tip comes from Marga at Discover Portugal. In her last article, she slowed things down for us in Alentejo, with Évora and Monsaraz showing us the beauty of quiet travel.

This week, she’s taking us to Madeira, and this isn’t just a quick overview. It’s a deep, beautifully put-together guide filled with practical tips, hidden gems, and visuals that stop you mid-scroll. If Madeira is even slightly on your radar, do yourself a favour: open every link. This is the kind of content you save, revisit, and plan your trip around. Enjoy!

🏝

Madeira wasn’t meant to be a hiking trip for us… but that’s exactly what it became!

We spent 10 days on the island, which felt like the perfect amount of time for a first visit. Enough to explore different parts of the island, slow down a bit, and still leave with a long list of places to come back to.

What surprised me most is how diverse Madeira feels. One moment you’re walking through lush green valleys, the next you’re standing on dramatic cliffs with views over the Atlantic. A car definitely helped us to zigzag all over the island!

If you’re living in Portugal and looking for a trip that feels completely different from the mainland, Madeira is an easy yes.

Most trips begin in Funchal, and it’s a great base for a few days.

One of the most iconic things to do here is heading up to Monte. You can take the cable car for views over the city, visit the Monte Palace gardens, and then… do something a little unexpected.

The famous toboggan ride. Yes, it’s touristy. And yes, I’d still recommend it.

It’s one of those experiences that feels slightly ridiculous but is genuinely fun. Just try to avoid cruise ship days if you can, as queues get long quickly.

We combined it with a visit to the gardens, which are honestly a must. Quiet corners, beautiful tiles, and views over Funchal make it feel like a completely different world.

We didn’t go to Madeira with a full hiking itinerary. But after our first levada walk, we were hooked.

The island is known for its levadas, irrigation channels that double as walking paths. They’re one of the easiest ways to explore Madeira’s nature without needing technical hiking skills.

If you’re planning to hike, it’s worth checking trail access and reservations in advance, as the PR routes now require booking. Some of our favourites were Levada do Caldeirão Verde and Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço, and we cannot wait to hike more!

One hike deserves a special mention, as one of my favourite moments on the island was completely unplanned. We decided to hike up to Pico Ruivo, the highest peak in Madeira, for sunset.

And honestly… it was one of those moments that just hits you. The light, the clouds rolling over the mountains, the silence. I had actual teary eyes standing there.

It’s not the easiest hike depending on your route, but if you’re even slightly into nature, this is one of those experiences you don’t forget.

If Madeira isn’t on your list yet, it probably should be. It’s one of those places that feels a bit like a mini adventure without leaving Portugal. And if you live there? I’m jealous!

If you’re planning a trip and want a full overview of what to do, where to go, and how to plan your time, I’ve put everything together here:

→ Things to do in Madeira

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With thanks to our collaborator for today’s travel article. Marga is a Dutch travel writer, photographer, and Portugal expert who founded Discover Portugal after falling in love with the country during a 2019 visit and relocating to Lisbon permanently in 2021. With over 25 years of travel experience and a background in tourism, aviation, and tech—including nearly eight years as an international flight attendant—Marga combines her storytelling skills, local insights, and photography expertise to help travelers discover both Portugal's famous sights and hidden gems. Through her website and personalized services, she offers travel planning assistance, Lisbon photography sessions, and authentic stories from her ongoing exploration of every corner of Portugal, helping curious travelers experience the country like a local rather than a tourist.

Nobody wrote these rules. So why do we all know them?

I recently had another call with expat psychologist Gabriela Encina, and we touched on something that I deeply resonated with in my own life and journey.

The Expat Rulebook.

What rulebook? You know the one. Nobody handed it to you. Nobody sat you down and read it aloud. But somehow, within weeks of arriving, you knew exactly what was in it. Befriend locals. Learn the language. Integrate fully. Love the culture. Don't complain. Be grateful. Embrace everything.

And if you're not doing all of that, fluently and cheerfully... you're failing.

In next week's newsletter, I'll share the insights from my talk with Gabriela on why this rulebook is so hard to ignore, and what really happens when we buy into the rules.

But before I share those insights, I want to hear from you.

Take a moment to answer one question in the survey below: Which expat rules have you been feeling pressured to follow? And if there is one we missed that has been living in your head rent free, I want to hear that too.

Next week, we will share the poll results anonymously, along with Gabriela’s guidance and insights. Be part of the conversation by clicking below, and keep an eye out for next week’s issue. I have a feeling it might shift your experience more than you expect.

Do you know how to talk about tennis shoes in European Portuguese? 👟

In this short lesson, you’ll learn useful Portuguese vocabulary for different parts of a shoe, such as:

Learning specific vocabulary like this will help you understand real-life Portuguese and speak more naturally in everyday situations.

🗣 Want to learn more phrases like this? Check out Mia’s free Portuguese course “Kickstart Your Portuguese - The Basics”.

💡 Mia from Mia Esmeriz Academy is a Portuguese teacher from Porto with more than 15 years of experience teaching foreigners. She helps expats become fluent in Portuguese in a clear and practical way. Alongside her courses, she also shares free content on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok.

Thanks for reading! 💌

Hustle on!

Angelique🧞‍♀️

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