🌊 Beach Vibes & Bacalhau Bites: Praia da Ursa & Bacalhau 101

Happy Sunday, Friends! 🌞

Welcome to our monthly Hustle Lite edition, where we dive a little deeper, have a little more fun, and tackle the real stuff that matters to expats living in Portugal.

I'll be honest: this newsletter almost didn't make it to your inbox today. I spent most of the week (and weekend!) wrestling with tech gremlins that seemed determined to derail everything. But here we are, and I'm glad we pushed through because this weekend's content is too good to miss.

📢 A Small Breakthrough (Finally!) on Expired Residency Permits

Speaking of not giving up, I finally made some progress with my daughter's ultra-expired residency permit situation. If you've been following along, you'll know we've been stuck in bureaucratic limbo for months, getting turned away from AIMA and IRN offices with the same promise: "We'll contact you."

Well, I decided to take matters into my own hands and discovered something that might help others in the same boat. There's actually a renewal portal where you can submit details for expired residency cards (valid for documents that expired before June 30, 2025) and formally request contact from authorities.

It's not a magic solution, but it's something, and sometimes that's all we need to keep the momentum going. I'll share the full details below, plus a quick poll to see how many of you are navigating these same choppy waters.

🌊 Hidden Gems: Praia da Ursa Awaits

This month, our amazing partner Marga from Discover Portugal takes us to one of Portugal’s best-kept secrets: Praia da Ursa. Her stunning photography and insider guide have officially moved this spot to the top of my must-visit list.

Trust me, you'll want to read every word of her piece. Not just for the travel inspiration, but because she's got a wonderful surprise for one lucky couple at the end!

🐟 Portugal 101: Demystifying Bacalhau

Finally, we're diving into one of Portugal's most iconic (and, let's be honest, intimidating) ingredients: bacalhau. Yes, that's the dried, salted cod that dominates supermarket aisles and might have you questioning your life choices the first time you encounter its... distinctive aroma.

But here's the thing: once you understand bacalhau, you unlock a huge part of Portuguese culture and cuisine. We're breaking it down with an intro to bacalhau that'll have you cooking like a local in no time.

Ready? Let’s dive in, shall we!

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Want some more info on this wild, charming beach? Read our travel article by Marga from Discover Portugal down below!

You can now renew directly through AIMA’s new online Portal das Renovações (https://portal-renovacoes.aima.gov.pt), launched in July 2025. The process is straightforward:

If your biometric data needs updating, you’ll be called for an in-person appointment.

Good news, your permit is automatically valid until October 15, 2025, under Decree-Law 85-B/2025.

You’ll need to wait for an email notification from AIMA’s Mission Structure to begin renewal. If you haven’t received anything yet, you can submit a contact request through the service portal (https://services.aima.gov.pt).

👉 For the most up-to-date details, always check the AIMA website or contact their support lines.

I’d love to know where my readers stand. Are you still waiting for your residency permit renewal, and does your case fall before or after the June 30 cutoff? ⤵

Today’s local travel tip is brought to you by Marga from Discover Portugal. Last time, she gave us the scoop on staying overnight on the Berlengas (who knew that was possible?). This week, she’s taking us closer to Lisbon with a hidden gem that’s every bit as unforgettable: Praia da Ursa.

It’s wild, rugged, and just a short hike away from the crowds of Cabo da Roca—but feels like another world entirely. Marga shares everything you need to know about visiting, plus a special opportunity for adventurous couples. You’ll find her article just below, and if this beach jumps onto your must-visit list, don’t miss her full blog for even more travel inspiration and stunning photos.

*This article has been lightly edited for clarity and style.

While Praia da Marinha in the Algarve often steals the spotlight and is frequently named one of the most beautiful beaches in Portugal and the world, Portugal has another treasure you may not have heard of: Praia da Ursa.

Ursa Beach is tucked away in Sintra, just a short drive from Lisbon. Unlike the famous Algarve beaches, it’s wonderfully remote and peaceful. Surprising, considering it sits right next to Cabo da Roca, which draws thousands of tourists! Yet, just beyond the crowds lies Praia da Ursa, hidden in plain sight.

You can start your adventure from Cabo da Roca, and in about 15 minutes of walking, you'll be rewarded with one of the most spectacular views over Praia da Ursa. The dramatic cliffs are raw and imposing, while the beach below remains beautifully wild and unspoiled.

From this stunning viewpoint, you can continue hiking down to the beach itself—a journey that takes approximately 15-20 minutes. However, be warned: the path is rocky and challenging. Good hiking shoes are absolutely essential. Really, leave your flip-flops at home for this adventure!

There are no facilities whatsoever on the beach, so come prepared. Pack a picnic and plenty of drinks if you plan to spend a few hours immersed in this natural paradise. A beach umbrella and sunscreen will also prove invaluable, as shade is virtually non-existent on this exposed stretch of coastline.

Swimming is entirely at your own risk, as there are no lifeguards on duty. However, for those brave enough to take the plunge, you can experience some of the best swimming waves Portugal has to offer.

Did you know that "Ursa” Beach translates to "Bear” Beach? The name comes from the distinctive rock formation called Rocha da Ursa, which is said to resemble a bear mother protecting her cub. This legend dates back to the ice age, adding a mystical element to your visit.

If you love wild beaches and coastal hikes, this extraordinary spot absolutely deserves a place on your Portuguese itinerary. Once you're there, you can see for yourself whether the ancient rocks truly remind you of these majestic creatures.

If you love the idea of a beach that feels untouched, where the waves crash against dramatic cliffs and the only soundtrack is the ocean, then Praia da Ursa is absolutely worth the hike. It’s not the easiest beach to access, and it’s certainly not the most convenient: no cafés, no lifeguards, no easy stroll to the sand. But that’s exactly what makes it special. It’s the kind of place that rewards those willing to go a little further for something unforgettable.

Whether you go for the photos, the legend, or just the raw beauty of the place, Praia da Ursa deserves a spot on your Portugal bucket list.

👉 For an in-depth article on Praia da Ursa (plus even more stunning photographs), head over to Marga’s blog, Discover Portugal.

If you'd like to be photographed at Ursa Beach during the magical golden hours of sunrise or sunset, there's a unique opportunity available. Marga from Discover Portugal is currently seeking a couple for a complimentary (free!) photo session in September to add to her portfolio.

Originally, she was scheduled to capture a proposal earlier this year, but the plans fell through when one of the brides-to-be felt uncomfortable about the challenging heights and terrain. If you're confident about tackling the rocky path down to the beach and want a truly unique couple's photoshoot, this could be perfect for you.

To apply, contact Marga with a picture of the two of you and your preferred date(s) in September. Send your information to [email protected]. Please note that the resulting images will be featured on her website and social media platforms.

🌴

With thanks to our collaborator for today’s travel article. Marga is a Dutch travel writer, photographer, and Portugal expert who founded Discover Portugal after falling in love with the country during a 2019 visit and relocating to Lisbon permanently in 2021. With over 25 years of travel experience and a background in tourism, aviation, and tech—including nearly eight years as an international flight attendant—Marga combines her storytelling skills, local insights, and photography expertise to help travelers discover both Portugal's famous sights and hidden gems. Through her website and personalized services, she offers travel planning assistance, Lisbon photography sessions, and authentic stories from her ongoing exploration of every corner of Portugal, helping curious travelers experience the country like a local rather than a tourist.

For curious expats in Portugal (whether brand-new or simply baffled) who’ve found themselves wondering about that unmistakable aroma drifting through every grocery store.

The first time you step into a Portuguese supermarket, you brace yourself for the familiar confusion of navigating foreign aisles, when suddenly, wham! A pungent, briny aroma hits you like a wave straight off the Atlantic. Your nose wrinkles, maybe you even pause mid-step, and you think: What the hell is that smell?

Congratulations. You’ve just met bacalhau. Portugal’s most beloved (and often misunderstood) culinary treasure.

Those large, stiff, yellowish slabs stacked or hanging in the fish section? They aren’t strange wall décor. That’s dinner. And not just any dinner, but the star of more than 365 recipes. Yes, one for every day of the year.

Bacalhau is simply dried and salted cod, most often from the species Gadus morhua. Think of it as the fishy cousin of beef jerky. This preservation method has been used for centuries, back when refrigeration was only a dream.

The process turns fresh cod into something that looks more like salted cardboard than food. But here’s the catch: once properly prepared, bacalhau becomes one of Portugal’s most versatile and treasured ingredients.

And the locals? Completely obsessed with it. For good reason.

The Portuguese love affair with bacalhau started in the 1500s, when fishermen set sail for the cold waters off Newfoundland. The problem? Fresh fish wouldn’t survive the long trip back. The solution? Salt it, dry it, and voilà, it lasted for months.

What began as a necessity turned into a tradition. Today, most bacalhau is imported from Norway and other northern countries, but it’s still prepared and eaten in a way that feels distinctly, proudly Portuguese.

This is where many expats freeze (sometimes literally, if they stick it in the wrong part of the fridge). But don’t worry — it’s easier than it looks.

Pro tip: when your neighbors notice you changing bacalhau water at 6 AM, you’ll know you’re blending in.

After soaking, that rigid plank magically softens into plump, flaky fish. The saltiness mellows. The smell calms down. And suddenly, it’s ready for real cooking.

Now the fun part. You can:

Mastering bacalhau isn’t only about cooking. It’s about connecting with Portugal itself.

Once you’ve soaked, cooked, and shared a bacalhau dish, you’re not just eating, you’re participating in a tradition that spans centuries. Portuguese friends will smile knowingly. Grandmothers may hand you secret family recipes. And you’ll suddenly understand why every kitchen has that odd plastic tub set aside just for soaking cod.

Yes, bacalhau has a smell that stops you in your tracks. Yes, it takes planning. But when you taste your first creamy Bacalhau com Natas or fluffy Bacalhau à Brás, you’ll get it. This isn’t just food. It’s history, culture, and comfort all served on one plate.

Don’t sweat it if your first attempt is too salty or falls apart. Even seasoned Portuguese cooks have bacalhau disaster stories.

Remember, that strange-smelling slab is more than just dried fish. It’s your gateway to Portuguese culture, community, and the kind of hospitality that keeps people coming back for seconds.

So go on. Embrace the smell. Trust the soak. And welcome to the world of bacalhau.

🐟

Looking for more resources on everything Bacalhau? Check out the following pages:

And since we’re on the topic of supermarket adventures… after reading our crash course on bacalhau, why not practice the actual words you’ll need when shopping? This Listen & Repeat lesson from Portuguese Lab walks you through essential supermarket vocabulary, so you’ll sound more confident the next time you’re navigating those aisles.

Thanks for reading! 💌

Hustle on!

Angelique🧞‍♀️

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